CHEESE NOTES

New cheesemaking book on the shelf: Artisan Cheesemaking At Home, by Mary Karlin, author of Elements of Taste and a culinary instructor and writer. A beautifully designed, nicely laid out cookbook with gorgeous photography, and an extensive collection of recipes organized by difficulty from the easiest cheeses (quesos, ricottas, paneers etc) to the most challenging cheeses (blues, washed rinds, etc).

All recipes are designed for the home kitchen, and where possible rely on ordinary refrigeration, simple aging boxes, etc. I’m excited to give some of these a try, particulary some of the bloomy and washed rinds (“Epoisses” from my home kitchen? I dare not dream!). 

And speaking of Epoisses, one question that arises as I thumb through this book: the use of D.O.C. cheese appellations — a common practice generally with American cheesemakers, not just Karlin by any stretch. At the end of the day, no matter what it  tastes like or how closely it hews to the original, is it Epoisses, if it’s not made in the village of Époisses, Côte-d’Or France? “Epoisses-style” would perhaps be a better nomenclature, and more accurate as well, since there’s just no way to produce a true Epoisses in a home kitchen setting.

All that being said, it’s a complex question, especially as America has no comparable D.O.C. system, which has both it’s positives and negatives. As others have argued better than I could, the lack of such a system is also what allows for the astonishing creativity and exploration that is currently happening in the American cheese scene. It might be the Wild West of cheese, but it’s also a little bit Paris in the 20’s, with an explosion of new cheeses and techniques blossoming. And I certainly don’t want to take away from this book, which looks to be a great addition to any cheesemaker’s library!

The book also has a useful companion website, including sample recipes and more in-depth information on some of the cheeses.

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