Bonne Bouche, from the acclaimed Vermont Butter & Cheese Creamery (last featured here for their Cremont), is a brilliant example of an ash-coated, geotrichum-rinded goat cheese. The crinkled, “brainy” pattern of the mold is a distinct fingerprint of Geotrichum Candidum; any time you see that you can bet that this particular mold is integral to the recipe. Despite appearances the cheese is actually served fairly young, as early as 18 days, although it can go longer for a runnier, more pungent wheel.
Bonne Bouche (translation: “Good Mouthful” in French) bears a strong resemblance to a Loire Valley goat’s milk cheese recently featured here, Selles Sur Cher, both in appearance and in flavor and character. This is not coincidental, as Allison Hooper of VB&C, early in her career, spent time in France working with traditional cheese makers in the region from which Selles Sur Cher originates.
This cheese is a wonderful tribute to her teachers back in the Loire; mildly pungent, the aroma hinting at wet caves, hay and beneficial molds, the soft, pillowy rind opens up to reveal a delicate, buttery, velvety paste with a sweet, grassy, lemony flavor, mild and bright with a wonderful milky tang.
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