Drunken Hooligan, from Cato Corner Farm, is a version of their well-regarded raw-milk washed rind cheese Hooligan, in this case washed in grape must and red wine from Colchester’s Priam Vineyard, instead of the brine wash that the Hooligan gets. Last summer, during another heat wave, I posted about another of their alcohol-washed cheeses, the Rapple Ree, which is washed in apple brandy. For some reason I always seem to end up eating their alcohol-washed cheeses when the mercury is topping out, but that doesn’t take away from the pleasure (and even leaves them oozier, just the way I like ‘em).
Drunken Hooligan is not not as stinky as its sober counterpart, but has a distinctive pungency, especially as it warms, and a fruitiness and and lingering musty, vegetal and meaty notes in the flavor. A great cheese to pair with beers and ciders.
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