Now open in Tribeca: All Good Things, an...

Tuesday, September 4 2012

Now open in Tribeca: All Good Things, an “artisanal food court”, specializing in local vendors and products, at 102 Franklin St. (and Church St., directly across from the Steven Alan flagship store) featuring a variety of vendors including Orwasher’s bread, Blue Marble Ice Cream, Nunu Chocolates, Dickson’s Farmstand Meats, Blue Bottle Coffee, and a seafood counter run by chef Ryan Tate. Tribeca has many great restaurants but a little bit of a paucity of quality food shopping options, so this is a welcome addition to the neighborhood. The food court occupies a converted industrial space with exposed brick walls and arched ceiling.

Of greatest interest to this blogger, of course, is the cheese counter, provided by a new outpost of Cavaniola’s, the wine and cheese shop with a devoted following in Sag Harbor, Long Island. The selection is focused on European cheeses and affineurs (with a smaller selection of American cheeses), and the presentation of the cheeses, with wheels and wedges stacked, scattered and laid out on the counter — uncovered or under bell jars and available for close inspection by the customers — emulates the European cheesemonger’s style as well.

Among the cheeses I sampled was a wonderful Italian Alpine cheese called Enzia, similar to Scharffe Maxx in its pungency and meatiness (I’ve been having trouble finding more information about it online, I’ll have to go back to the counter to pick their brains); Aargauer Bierdeckel, Rolf Beeler’s wheat-beer washed beauties (previously reviewed here); Blu del Re, a grape leaf-wrapped creamy blue from Piedmont, Italy; Stanser Schaf Reblochon, a delicious and gloriously pungent sheep’s milk Reblochon from Switzerland; and a luscious, spoonable Epoisses, perfectly a point.

Cavaniola’s also features charcuterie, condiments, prepared foods and a variety of other accompaniments for your cheeses. One that caught my eye were the fig paste balls, wrapped in fig leaves, perfect as a centerpiece for a cheese plate.

All Good Things is open 7am-10pm, seven days a week, so get on down there and check it out!